Report from the April 8, 2024, Solar Eclipse
John Pearson
Time is speeding. I set my alarm for 6:00 a.m., and was on the road by 7:10, my backpack supplied with my cameras and tripod, a cooler of Diet Mountain Dew to keep me awake, and my phone to play some of my favorite albums out on the road. I was in need of and ready for a good solo road trip. My sister Jan was going to join me but is still recovering from hip replacement and wasn’t up for an all-day car ride.
I set out at latitude 41.86686°, longitude -88.09169°, and altitude 198 meters above sea level. I knew only that I was chasing the total eclipse, the path of totality. I’d experienced it once before, in 2017, and wasn’t about to miss what could be the only other chance I’ll have in this realm.
I had managed to get sleep by 10:00, or to bed anyway, so I had eight hours of shut eye before setting out from home in Wheaton, IL. I had about 240 miles to get to the band of totality, mostly straight south and a bit east of my starting point. I picked out Olney, IL as a starting goal—from there I could head east towards Vincennes, IN, which was right in the center of the path of totality—and GPS said it was just over 5 hours on the road. The back roads, that is. I avoided the interstate, cause that’s no fun, and would likely be full of traffic. With motel rooms near the path of totality going for ten times their normal rates, there would be a lot of people on the road.
I took the back roads because that’s what I do, remembering the book Blue Highways: A Journey into America by William Least Heat Moon, which was published shortly after I got my undergrad degree and felt the call of the road. I’d set the GPS to avoid toll roads and highways, and I enjoyed the trip through farmland. I saw lots of large wind farms, lots of small solar farms, and endless barren ethanol farms awaiting the corn planting, which isn’t far off. Just under a third of the corn grown in Illinois is used to make ethanol, while only seven percent is used to feed livestock.
When I was 150 miles south of my starting point, I could tell that traffic was picking up. There were a lot more cars than you would normally see on back roads through small town Illinois on a Monday morning. I did go through some small cities, including Charleston, where I saw the grand old castle-like main building on the campus of Eastern Illinois University.
I kept on south towards Olney, with a population of about 8,000, but 24 miles north of Olney, I got stuck in Newton, a town just under 3,000, where traffic was backed up in every direction and traffic cops were out trying in vain to keep things moving. A couple blocks past the main intersection and perhaps the only traffic light in town, I stopped at a Casey’s to stretch my legs and use the restroom, which at that point had a short line. They would get much longer. Coming out I looked both ways down the road, looked at the map on my phone, and decided that continuing south towards Olney would be a mistake.
I decided to just go east out of Newton towards Oblong and then Robinson. Oblong had long been one of my favorite eccentric town names, but I’d never been there, so it seemed appropriate. I had to go back north a couple blocks to the light, to turn right and go east on IL 33. As soon as I turned out, I thought, uh oh. Traffic was backed up to the light, and there were semi-trucks in abundance. It took a few minutes to make it 30 yards, and then I turned right on the first side street and wound my way through the neighborhoods, such as they were, of Newton, IL.
Here I crossed the Embarras (yes, that’s how they spell it) River for at least the 3rd time. It winds around a lot. And I crossed the Embarras River on at least the 2nd Burl Ives Memorial Bridge of the day. Turns out Burl was born in rural Jaspar County, outside Newton. And like small towns rightly do everywhere, they take and celebrate their celebrity wherever they can.
Almost no one was going east out of Newton. I’d found my path. Oblong was 15 miles east, Robinson about the same past that. And Robinson was only ten or eleven miles from the Indiana border. Oblong would have 3:35 of totality, which was almost two hours off, so I was right on time.
Oblong was exactly as expected, a spread out sleepy little town of 1500 or so, incorporated in 1883, that has seen better days yet was far from a ghost town. Robinson was over 7,000, so I was hoping to find a forest preserve somewhere along route IL 33.
Sure enough, about halfway between Oblong and Robinson, there on the north side of the road was a sign that said Crawford County Forest Preserve, which has a little nature center, a gravel parking lot with about a dozen cars and room for that many again. I pulled in and parked, got out to stretch my legs and see if this would work.
It was perfect. Woods around, a small lake, a grand clearing of an acre or two with a path around it. I walked around and got my bearings and went back to my car and got my gear and chair and water and headed out to the clearing, chatting with folks along the way. There was a large picnic shelter with a few groups having pre-eclipse cookouts. Out in the clearing there were a couple large groups settled in to watch, a few smaller gatherings, some couples, a few other solo acts. Bikers and roller bladders with their dogs were making good use of the path for exercise.
I got set up, my tripod and camera ready to aim at the sun, and sat down to take it all in. Just over an hour to totality, a good minute longer than I saw in 2017, and only 23 seconds or so shorter than the maximum, which would have been another half hour to hour drive with no promise of finding a spot as perfect as this.
Not long after I got there the partial began. I didn’t have eclipse glasses—they don’t interest me as much as watching around me, seeing how nature reacts. Seeing how the light changes. Every Casey’s and other gas station I stopped at on the way had big handwritten signs in their doors announcing, “We Don’t Have Eclipse Glasses!!!”
Shortly after I sat down a guy walked by from one of the big groups and asked if I wanted some glasses, he had a bunch of extra pairs. I said I was okay, and he walked on towards other groups and on his way back asked again and said I should take them as a souvenir. I said sure. He was from the southwest but was visiting friends in Kentucky, so they just had a few hours’ drive to get here. He too had seen the 2017 one and wasn’t about to miss this.
I tried the glasses, and they worked fine, and it is sort of interesting to see the moon begin to block the sun. It’s not really noticeable, unless you really look closely, that the light is changing until it’s a good bit past halfway. One second before (or after) totality the sun is 10,000 times brighter than during totality. It is a switch that goes off and then on.
There was a little bit of haze in the sky. Not cloudy, just some really high hazy wisps that shouldn’t interfere with the eclipse, and as it turned out, didn’t. It wasn’t crowded, maybe 50 people or so, and we had a lot of land, a lot of open land, a lot of trees, and water. There were birds singing, and there was a frog pond back in the trees on the other side of the clearing from the lake, and they were croaking away and going at it the whole time, light or dark, they didn’t care. They were just having a good time.
I was set up at 39.00389° latitude, -87.83644° longitude, and 121 meters altitude. It was 198.26 miles from where I started, as the proverbial crow flies. I’d driven a bit over 240 miles, which was pretty direct. The meridional circumference of our planet is 24,859.73 miles. So I had traveled less than eight one thousandths, 8/1000, of the way around the globe to reach totality. I felt lucky to be that close.
The moon and sun each appear to cover about a half a degree in the sky. So if they were beads across the sky, you’d need 720 of them to go all the way around the sky. And they don’t follow the same orbit. It is indeed rare that they happen to line up overhead. In the 20th century there were a mere 228 solar eclipses on earth. Only 71 (the numbers are slightly fluid as there are some variations in the kinds of eclipses that are sometimes counted differently) of these were total eclipses. The rest were partial or annular. They are cool, but they are like going to a peewee baseball game where a total eclipse is game seven of the world series. And even that comparison pales.
And I was about to witness the second of these wonders in one lifetime. I felt immensely blessed. Once upon a time I had been an astronomy major in college but was done in when I was assigned a calculus professor who was a week over from China and spoke not a word of English. Who knows how life would have gone with a different professor. It may have been very different, though that is a story for another day, and in the end, I’m sure a part of me was destined to be like the narrator of Whitman’s poem “When I Heard the Learned Astronomer,” who drifts out of the lecture hall to be captured by the poetry of the heavens. And here I was, about to witness another grand epic poem.
Once the sun is about two thirds covered by the moon you can definitely sense the light is different. As can the birds, as can the world. The chirping seems slower, as if asking questions. The light is unlike anything else I’ve ever seen. The closest I can come is the strange light before a big storm moves in, but while that is ominous, this is somehow peaceful yet mysterious. The world begins to quiet, preparing for something.
Light itself is being wrung out of the world. The overwhelming flood of photons is being squeezed and compressed, ultimately to almost nothing.
About ten minutes before totality it is getting very dim, a compressed end of day. The exterior lights on a house in the distance are on a sensor and they come on.
The temperature quickly drops a good fifteen or twenty degrees. It had been in the mid-70s, and suddenly I wished I hadn’t left my sweatshirt in the car. But I knew the cool wouldn’t last long. If only it could, but this was a 3:35 wonder.
I could sense everyone there anticipating, getting ready for what, for something. The best metaphors about a total eclipse that I’ve read are in Annie Dillard’s classic 1982 essay “Total Eclipse.” She writes that the difference between a partial solar eclipse and a total solar eclipse is “the difference between flying in an airplane and jumping out of an airplane,” and “the difference between kissing a man and marrying a man.” Wonderful metaphors, and very much capture the difference between the two things. Yet that doesn’t get at it, really, what the thing is itself. The metaphors are comparative. How do you explain something that there simply is nothing to compare to. As I said, one second before totality the sun is still 10,000 times brighter than at totality. A comparative metaphor doesn’t quite get at the thing itself. A line from a Bruce Cockburn song keeps playing in my head, “But this, this is something other.”
Then it hits and you feel time rush.
No one is prepared for it. You hear exclamations, you feel your own jaw drop and you mouth hang open. You stare, right at the sun. We’re used to a ring around the moon, but this is a ring around the sun. I glance around and everyone’s face is pointed towards the sun, like a field of sunflowers that follow the sun across the sky every day. We all stood there; our faces aimed towards the wonder.
This was a ring around the sun, but not the sun, just a ring, around the darkest black hole I will ever see. It’s the moon, but the blackest black. It gives the sense of staring through the universe, a hole to the past, or the future, or to some place where time itself doesn’t exist. We are all startled.
And in a rush. I bend down to my camera, aim, set the 10 second timer and begin to take pictures. 3:35, it will go fast. There are times in life when waiting ten minutes can seem like an hour, and this is a time when 3:35 I know will feel like 35 seconds if I’m lucky. With my other camera I take a panoramic photo of the 360° sunset that I think is only seen during an eclipse like this.
Orange glow on the horizon in any and every direction you look. There is no east or west, no north or south. There’s a Bible verse or hymn that uses such a phrase, I think, but there is no time to search the memory banks of my mind and try to find it now. The clock is ticking. I stare at the ring. A smooth glowing diamond surrounding a hole in the universe.
I listen, and there is no cacophony of crickets. Too early in the season, I think. At the fist eclipse I saw the moment of totality was a switch that turned on countless crickets, offering a loud nighttime concert for exactly the duration of totality.
A few birds sing; not those that were singing before, but birds that sing in the night. I think it may have been a whippoorwill. My mind races, how to take it all in? The Cockburn line keeps playing in my head, “But this, this is something other.” I need a new word. Other doesn’t cut it. I stare at the sky. Venus shines bright below and to the right of the ring. Other stars are out, though with this particular eclipse the sky isn’t as dark as with some.
That’s largely cause the sun is active, throwing out more light than usual into the corona. I stare at the corona in wonder. A perfect ring, a pearl in the sky. I look close, stare, and at the bottom of the ring, a bright red ruby. A refraction trick of my glassed, I think, smiling at the thought that many will wonder if the red dot is an alien spaceship.
There are smaller red rubies around the light, on the inside edge, but the one at the bottom is the largest, brightest, ruby on the briefest, most valuable jewel in the world. On my photos later, the large ruby stands out well. And what is it?
A solar prominence. Like a solar flare, though a flare leaves the sun, spewing bright material out into space. A prominence remains attached to the sun and can last up to several months; it’s a bright bump of material bubbling up on the sun’s surface, reaching beyond the moon’s shadow. Our star is in an active phase, and prominences aplenty sparkled on the surface of this nearest fusion engine to our home planet.
The totality photos, when I got home and blew them up on the computer, at first looked nothing like what my eyes sensed in the moment. The photos showed what seemed to be a lens flare, light spreading out ragged all around the circle. My vision showed a much better-defined circle of light, with much lighter flares spreading beyond. I thought it somehow wondrous that there are things our eyes can detect that our technology isn’t up to.
When I looked closer at the photos though, they do show that defined ring. They just show the ragged light spreading farther a bit brighter than my naked eyes did. It was a matter of degrees, not a difference in kind in what my eyes and the camera saw. Perhaps, the more ways of seeing the better, in that way getting closer to the whole.
What the camera cannot capture is the whole field of vision, the orange sunset, the stars, the people gazing up, the trees in silhouette, and at the center above that portal to wonder, that hole in the universe. Such wide-angle photos just show a dimmer light in the sky—they can’t capture both the surrounding in full and the detail of the corona and black center that our eyes can. Nor are they supposed to. Photographs, all art in its way, give us a frame to see things through. The eclipse is beyond framing, it is the whole. The best I could do is breathe and take in the whole as best I could for 3:35 and try to capture a few framed parts of that whole as quickly as I could, to help me remember. I looked….and looked, and hoped I saw.
I’d taken several photos of totality, I’d taken a panorama of the 360° sunset, I’d listened to the birds, I’d watched those around me staring upward, jaws dropped, I’d noticed the lack of crickets, the stars, the night-time bird song…and still, we had totality. Amazing. The clock was ticking, the earth racing. I’d no idea how many seconds were left.
I looked up, staring at the jewel, looking through the eye of the universe, spread my arms to the heavens, and was at one with the totality. Eternity in a moment, as we say, though of course the earth will spin. I tried to take it all in, embrace the moment, remember every detail, slow down, sink into the moment of eternity.
And then it is over. In one second, the sun became 10,000 times brighter. And brighter. And brighter. We all got out our eclipse glasses and watched the moon begin to uncover the sun. An eclipse teaches me more about how bright the sun is than anything else has. And it kept getting brighter. The air quickly warmed up again. The day birds slowly began to sing, sure that whatever it was that just happened had passed. A few of the people around sat down again, a few started to pack up and prepare to depart.
We’d just had a compressed sunrise…what normally takes an hour or two, from first light on the horizon to full daylight, we had just experienced in about five minutes. Time is speeding. Life is fleeting.
Fifteen or twenty minutes after the sun burst out from behind the moon, I packed up my chair, tripod, and cameras, and slowly walked through the preserve to my car, looking up at the wispy clouds that were appearing, feeling the warmth of the sun, amazed at how different everything was compared to twenty minutes before. Sometimes change happens fast.
On the road I was looking for even backer back roads than on the trip down. East a few miles, then north. Ten miles on a small town with a Casey’s, so I stopped to use the restroom. At least fifteen people were in line and I stood there more than ten minutes and it didn’t move at all, so I left, hoping at the next town and next Casey’s we’d be far enough from the path of totality that the lines would be down. And so they were.
Even on these back county roads, there were a lot more cars than would normally be there on a Monday afternoon, but the traffic moved fine. The only time it got slowed down was when I hit a crossroad where traffic didn’t stop. The first two of those took a good ten to fifteen minutes to cross, waiting in a line of twenty or more cars, while steady traffic streamed from east to west on the crossroad.
The third such intersection like that I came to, when I got to within five cars or so of the stop sign, a black pick up from the right slowed, and held up the traffic behind her as the driver leaned out the window and waved us through! She was filled with good eclipse karma! As each of us drove through the stop sign, we waved our thanks. I don’t know how many cars she waved through, but it was a wonderful coda to the day with the eclipse community.
From there, to avoid traffic I really wound through back farm roads, some nearly one lane roads for a few miles until they found their way back to a county highway.
Every little town I went through had its welcome sign with the date the town was incorporated. That part of the state appears to have been largely settled in the 1870s and 1880s judging from the signs. When I was a kid, or even in my 20s, I’d see signs like that, and it would seem so long ago. At the time it would have been close to 100 years ago, five times or more as long as I’d been alive. Now at 64, 1880 doesn’t feel nearly as long ago. Indeed, it’s less than three of the lifetimes I’ve lived to this point. The older I get the closer history comes to me. Time is elastic, malleable. Perhaps that is what comes from seeing an eclipse and thinking about time.
As I drove, the world kept spinning. Through the eclipse that is obvious. The eclipse shows us just how fast the world spins. That is one of its greatest lessons. I’d now seen two total eclipses. How blessed and lucky I am. I may not see another. I’d have to travel much farther around the globe to see another, and as I’ve said, in any case, they are quite rare.
Twelve hours on the road today was nothing to see an eclipse. I’d go ten times as far without a second thought if I had the chance. But they are rare and scattered on the globe.
Today reset my spirit, got me back in tune with the earth, with creation. Experiencing a total solar eclipse is a great gift. Sometimes you have to go a ways to put yourself in position to receive a great gift. And so I traveled, if not nearly as far as millions of my fellow eclipse hunters. I rejoice. I am alive today. I witnessed a wonder. Life is fleeting.